We leave the harborfront in Kota Kinabalu, the bustling state capital of Sabah, and head towards a jungle oasis as pristine blue waves lap our boat. We’re not going to an island paradise, though; in fact, we won’t be setting foot on the ground. Instead, we’re headed to a group of stilted shacks about 7 kilometers from the coast that are elevated above the water. The Bajau Laut, a nomadic group that spends the majority of their lives at sea, call the village home.
The Bajau, who eat Malaysia’s amazing seafood for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, are the ideal people to start my culinary exploration of Sabah. But we’ll have to catch it first. Renowned hunters, they dismantle and reassemble their temporary homes as they pursue the fish.