French footwear brand Zeta, known for its eco-conscious approach, has launched smart shoes as part of its new Saudade collection. The collection is being showcased at a pop-up in Paris’s Marais, located at 3, rue Sainte-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, running from November 5 to December 29, 2025. In just the first two months, smart shoes made up 20% of sales. Zeta now works with five manufacturing partners in Portugal: two for trainers and three for other footwear including loafers, ballet flats, and smart shoes. Sandals will join the lineup in next summer’s collection.
Portugal at the Heart of Zeta’s Craft
Founder Laure Babin has a strong connection with Portugal, visiting regularly and maintaining close relationships with the brand’s manufacturing partners. The Saudade collection draws inspiration from Portuguese craftsmanship. Collaborations, like the 2024 partnership with ready-to-wear label Émoi Émoi, are part of Zeta’s creative strategy. Babin also hopes to team up with Flotte to create rain-ready versions of Zeta shoes. The brand’s offerings include essential ready-to-wear pieces and recycled fleece jackets.
Sustainability Through Innovation
Zeta has long focused on sustainable materials sourced from agricultural waste. Earlier collections featured grape pomace for leather and maize for textiles. In 2022, the brand worked with Nespresso on coffee ground-based materials, securing exclusive rights for a year. In 2023, Zeta started using olive pomace, the by-product of olive oil production. These efforts aim to achieve B Corp certification and entreprise à mission status by 2026.
From Startup to Global Presence
Founded in 2020 while Babin was a management student at IAE Bordeaux, Zeta began with crowdfunding, selling 3,000 pairs of shoes. The team has since grown to eight full-time members, with additional freelance support. The brand is now sold across France, Italy, the US, and Asia via 70 retailers. Zeta initially focused on digital native vertical business (DNVB) sales but quickly moved into wholesale, including partnerships with Bordeaux’s Cité du Vin. The Paris pop-up allows direct interaction with customers and international buyers.
Navigating Challenges in the Footwear Market
Zeta faces competitive pressure from fast-fashion brands like Shein and has joined a complaint led by the Fédération Française du Prêt-à-Porter Féminin. Despite this, the brand maintains production in Portugal and recently raised €600,000 in a fundraising round, with investors including William Hauvette and Philippe Berland. For the 2025 financial year, Zeta achieved 20% growth, with expectations to reach 70% growth by August 2026.
