Empty Tables Highlight Struggles
In Angers, western France, Mickael Moureaud scans the nearly empty tables at his restaurant L’Ange Vin. “We should be three-quarters full at this time, but we’re more than three-quarters empty,” he says. Unfortunately, rising supplier costs have hit his business hard. For example, minced beef cost €8 per kilo last year and now sells for €12.50. Moureaud has absorbed the increases instead of raising prices. However, his customer numbers have dropped by 10%.
Changing Habits in Small-Town France
A few years ago, small towns were full of traditional restaurants. Now, many only have a bakery or a fast-food or kebab outlet. Dishes such as steak frites, coq au vin, and mussels in white wine sauce are disappearing at a rate of roughly 25 closures per day. Even so, locals often prefer workplace canteens or cheaper options, despite affordable menus in traditional eateries.
Rising Costs Make Survival Hard
L’Ange Vin offers three-course meals for €16.50 ($19.50). Yet, Moureaud struggles to cover expenses. After paying staff, suppliers, and taxes, he sometimes cannot even pay himself. “I love what I do, but we are barely getting by. It’s stressful, and I could lose everything after 20 years of work,” he admits. In fact, he relies on his wife’s salary to make ends meet some months.
A Nationwide Trend
Traditional restaurants across France face declining profits. Indeed, national statistics show profits fell from 11% of turnover in 2023 to just 3% in 2024. Celine Viale, who runs three eateries in Angers and heads the regional restaurant owners’ union, explains that closures are increasing. Between June 2024 and June 2025, nearly 9,800 restaurants closed permanently, a 10% rise from the previous year. Consequently, average turnover fell by 22%, and many traditional bistros were replaced by burger chains or other fast-food outlets.
The Future of French Cuisine
Even restaurants in prime locations struggle to survive. Thus, the decline highlights a broader shift in French dining habits. Rising costs, changing tastes, and competition from fast food pose serious challenges for the future of traditional French bistros.
