One flawless croissant.
However, this specific pastry, one of several crammed onto a showcase shelf in a plain-looking boulangerie in the heart of Paris, is no typical offering. Not at all. This croissant is devoid of butter, a bold departure from almost a century of devoted cooking customs, and an acknowledgment of broader movements aiming to transform French cuisine and farming.
Seldom has sacrifice appeared so alluring.
Rodolphe Landemaine smiled and said, “I’m changing the world,” in between bites of a pain au chocolat that had been painstakingly laminated and free of butter.
