In winter, Sweden’s long, chilly evenings may deter you from visiting unless you’re looking for that elusive 21st-century luxury: a restful night’s sleep.
The ferry circles the eastern Swedish archipelago, cutting through the frigid waters of the Baltic. The rust-red huts lining the jetties are painted with place names such as Skarpö, Hjälmö, and Gällnö. In Swedish, the suffix “Ö” signifies “island,” and the image depicts a land mass encircled by water, with two small humans ready to dock.
One of the few islands in the archipelago with winter accommodations is Svartsö, where I am the only one disembarking.
